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The colour palette and atmosphere of the collection was initially inspired by Katsushika Hokusai's 19th century woodblock illustration The Great Wave off Kanagawa. Japan has constantly referenced the sheer destructive force of nature throughout its history within its culture and art. Yet Japan's culture has continuously managed to portrait a delicate, harmonious and balanced image of it's society, showing calm serene landscapes of flat water and iconic mountains, Japanese karesansui tranquility gardens and the fragility of nature in the form of Cranes and Wisteria, whilst constantly being reminded of the destructive powers of the pacific rim. This collection draws on both elements, showing the resilience of human interaction with nature. How fragility and beauty can be reborn after a destructive event. How through even the deepest chaos, nature will always fight back, returning a zen-like balance to the environment.
The colours and fabrication in the collection follow this concept of transition from sea to land, from dramatic flouncing in dark and blue tones, through to fragile pale blossom tones and shimmering embellishment. Beautifully hand-crafted beading and embroidery inspired by wisteria and honeysuckle elevates the feminine and delicate character which evolves throughout the collection. Shagreen is used throughout the collection on the accessories and as a finishing detail, providing a glimmering water inspired trim. This collection showcases the house's development in unique woven fabrics such silk moiré creating a water-like texture, and a satin organza which appears in the guise of opulent flouncing and delicate sculpted shapes.
As the collection explores the emergence of the Eastern style through the eyes of the West as seen in the late 1970’s there are very subtle references to the Japanese kimono structure. Squared folding, slashed and extended sleeves and drop back necklines are married with sharp crisp tailoring that gives a nod to a glamorous western international style as seen in the 1970's. A hexagon graphic inspired by Japanese woodcut prints crops up throughout collection and is updated for both embellishment and accessories. This clean graphic combined with refined tailoring offers a counterpoint to the dramatic stand alone gowns in the collection.
